The heart of Italy, Gran Sasso motorcycle tour
An experience can’t truly be defined until it comes to an end, and no memory can exist without an action set in motion.
My decision to join a motorcycle tour organized by All Routes Italy, led by Fabio Affuso, took me on an unforgettable journey through the heart of Italy, across the stunning regions of Umbria, Abruzzo, and Lazio, riding classic motorcycles and meeting some truly wonderful people.
Our adventure began in Rome (or as we call it the Eternal City), where participants arrived from all corners of the world, from Milwaukee to Abu Dhabi, via Copenhagen and Hamburg. Rome, a city overflowing with history and art, never fails to leave me speechless and humbled by the sheer beauty that surrounds its people every day.
From the very beginning, our group of like-minded riders felt an instant bond, perhaps because we were about to fulfil the long-awaited start of the tour, or maybe because we will all share the same story in motion.
Our first Italian dinner was a true dive into traditional Roman cuisine, tucked away in a quirky little restaurant hidden down a narrow alley. We were served generous mix of shared plates, crispy fried seafood, melanzane alla parmigiana (fried aubergine layered with cheese and tomato sauce), roasted vegetables, and saltinbocca (veal wrapped in prosciutto and sage, marinated in wine). The main courses took things to another level: pasta alla Gricia, (handmade pasta with pecorino cheese, black pepper, and guanciale) alongside with Pasta alla carbonara and amatriciana, all paired perfectly with a bold Italian red wine. I wasn’t surprised to find out the name of this restaurant was La fata Turchina ‘The Blue Fairy’.
The next morning, we rose early, ready to hit the road. Leaving behind the city’s busy streets, our first stop was Tivoli, 30 kilometers northeast of Rome, famous for Villa d’Este, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a masterpiece of 16th-century Italian architecture. We enjoyed a morning coffee overlooking the city before continuing along scenic secondary roads toward the medieval town of Rieti for lunch.
Fabio, our tour leader, had clearly poured incredible time and passion into curating and scouting the perfect routes balancing exhilarating roads with authentic Italian cuisine and well-timed coffee stops.
As the day unfolded, we rode through forests and valleys, climbing hills and crossing medieval towns perched on mountaintops once strategic vantage points built to protect citizens from enemy attacks. Riding in Italy gives you a unique sense of harmony with nature, especially in October, when autumn paints the countryside in vibrant greens, yellows, browns, oranges, and reds. The air is filled with the earthy scent of moss, wood smoke, and mushrooms. Every sense awakens, eager to capture the fleeting beauty of the moment.
That night, we stayed at Agriturismo Cupello, nestled in the mountains just a few miles from L’Aquila. Agriturismo, a blend of agricoltura (agriculture) and turismo (tourism), originated as a way to support small farmers while offering travellers an authentic experience of rural life. It’s a
way to connect with Italy’s agricultural roots and culinary traditions, often through meals prepared with ingredients grown right on the property.
The following morning was especially thrilling, it was time to ride the legendary Gran Sasso, the mighty massif of the Apennine Mountains. Its highest peak, Corno Grande (2,912 meters), is the tallest in the Apennines and the second-highest in Italy outside the Alps. To its east lies Campo Imperatore, a vast high plain stretching 27 kilometers long and 8 kilometers wide at about 2,000 meters above sea level.
After conquering countless hairpins, we emerged onto the breathtaking plateau surrounded by peaks,a surreal landscape for any motorcyclist. It was one of the most spectacular rides I’ve ever experienced, rivaled only by the great Alpine passes. As we ascended, the air transformed, from the mossy scent of the forest to the crisp purity of high altitude. Trees gave way to open plains dotted with flocks of sheep guarded by Maremmano-Abruzzese dogs, herds of cattle, and semi-wild horses. Along the roadside, local vendors grilled arrosticini, traditional skewers of mutton or lamb, an irresistible taste of Abruzzo.
In the afternoon, we descended through sweeping bends and dramatic mountain views toward Capestrano (AQ), where we spent the night. The small village of Capestrano, home to fewer than 800 inhabitants, offered, nothing more and nothing less, than the essence of true Italian life. A town where everyone seemed to know each other, as most of everyday life rotated around the only bar in the main square. So when we rolled into Capestrano with our motorcycles, we instantly became the center of attention, as life in small villages moves at its own rhythm, slow, deliberate and deeply human, standing in quiet contrast to the relentless pace of our cities. It’s an endless conversation, this balance between calm and chaos, simplicity and motion. In the end, much like on a motorcycle ride, the challenge is always to find your balance.
On the third and final day, leaving Capestrano, we climbed into the Simbruini Mountains, which straddle the border between Abruzzo and Lazio. Often called “Rome’s Alps” for their proximity to the capital, the Simbruini Regional Nature Park is the largest protected area in Lazio, featuring peaks above 2,000 meters, vast beech forests, karst plateaus, and remnants of ancient aqueducts once built to supply water to Rome. Riding through these golden forests on quiet backroads, often without seeing another vehicle, was pure joy.
We stopped for lunch at Il Tartufo Panoramico, a mountain-side restaurant serving homemade pasta with truffles and hearty wild boar dishes. It was another perfect Italian moment, good food, laughter with my fellow riders, and breathtaking views.
We knew our journey was nearing its end. The afternoon ride of only 90 kilometres separated us from our final destination, Rome, where everything started.
We savored every curve and turn of the road, reluctant for it to end.
Back in the Italian capital, our final stop was Trastevere, the colorful bohemian neighborhood whose name comes from the Latin trans Tiberim, “beyond the Tiber.” With its narrow cobbled
streets, lively trattorias, and vibrant atmosphere, it was the perfect place for one last meal: a classic ‘cacio e pepe’ pasta to seal the memory.
On the flight home, I found myself replaying every moment of the Gran Sasso Tour with All Routes Italy. Words could never fully capture how special it was. Somewhere between memory and motion, I realized the experience had already settled into the past, yet it felt vividly alive. A year from now, I may forget the exact curves of the road or the shifting light on the mountains, but the emotions, the quiet joy, the awe, the sense of belonging, will remain, etched softly in the back of my mind.
